weekend
September, 2006

Northern Exposure

Written by Barbara Peck

Canada is rich in history, full of natural beauty and charm, easy on the wallet and (almost) everyone speaks English. So why haven't you gone yet?

September is the best month to be in Canada—the days are still warm, summer tourists have departed and the leaves are beginning to turn. These six cities are ripe for exploring: They all possess an appealing blend of modern and historic architecture, along with well-tended green spaces and plenty of elbow room on the sidewalks.

Why visit Canada? Well, it's close—all these cities are an easy drive or quick plane trip from many points in the United States (there are nonstop flights from almost 20 American cities to Calgary, for instance). Plus, the favorable exchange rate makes the U.S. dollar go a little further. And while Canada may not be exotic, it's just different enough—the pace is more laid-back, the population surprisingly diverse, with a well-deserved reputation for friendliness, the beer is great and the dollar is a coin with a loon etched on it. Besides, traveling abroad will give you something new to tell the neighbors on Monday, eh?

Toronto | Ontario

230 miles northeast of Detroit

Actor Peter Ustinov once quipped that Toronto was like "New York run by the Swiss." The financial and cultural center of English-speaking Canada isn't so straitlaced any more—its 7,000 restaurants and countless bars are hopping till all hours, and the multicultural population brings an international flair. Visitors gravitate to Queen Street West, with its offbeat galleries, vintage shops and boutiques selling Canadian designer fashions; the upscale Yorkville area; and the Distillery District, a complex of redbrick Victorian industrial buildings recently turned into home-design shops, artists' studios, bistros and outdoor cafés. Among its many museums, Toronto has two one-of-a-kind offerings: the Gardiner, dedicated to the ceramic arts, and the shoebox-shaped Bata Shoe Museum, covering 4,500 years of footwear. Changing displays rotate in shoes owned by celebrities like Marilyn Monroe, John Lennon (Beatle boots!) and Toronto's own Mike Myers (Dr. Evil's loafers).

where to eat
Splendido 88 Harbord St.; 416-929-7788 A white-tablecloth room with choreographed service. English-born chef David Lee experiments with Canadian ingredients (Nova Scotia lobster, Quebec duck, British Columbia halibut) for his "eclectic new Mediterranean" cuisine.
Bistro & Bakery Thuet 609 King St. W.; 416-603-2777 Star chef Marc Thuet, born in Alsace, opened this relaxed bistro last January. The surprise tasting menu ($110 per person) is especially imaginative; there's also an amazing bread and pastry shop on the premises.
Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar 9 Church St.; 416-362-1957 The menu at this informal spot near the lively St. Lawrence food market pairs small plates with selections from the exhaustive wine cellar.

where to stay
Park Hyatt Toronto 4 Avenue Rd.; 800-233-1234 or 416-925-1234; park.hyatt.com; doubles from $275 An ultra-luxe 346-room hotel in an Art Deco building in Yorkville. Ask for a room in the newer North Tower, and make time for an aquatherapy massage at the spa. Hotel Le Germain 30 Mercer St.; 866-345-9501 or 416-345-9500; germaintoronto.com; doubles from $220 A fashion-conscious 122-room boutique hotel in the theater district. The spacious lobby has a library and wood-burning fireplace. Drake 1150 Queen St. W.; 866-372-5386 or 416-531-5042; thedrakehotel.ca; doubles from $160 A heritage building is now a quirky hotel with vintage furniture, high-tech toys and Aveda amenities. There's a rooftop bar, yoga den and artists-in-residence program.