Toronto Star
Sunday, July 30, 2006

AFTER FIVE - A little touch of luxury

Written by Linda Barnard

A trip last week to the incubator of great American cuisine, the Napa and Sonoma regions of California, proved it: the cocktail is taking its rightful place as a gourmet experience.

Bartender Scott Beattie at Healdsburg’s Cyrus restaurant draws praising press all over the U.S. for his magnificent cocktail creations (check out the Thai Boxer: Charbay Tahitian Vanilla Bean Rum, Thai basil, cilantro, spearmint, lime juice, Thai coconut milk and ginger beer).

This sophisticated style of mixology is working its way north. The new philosophy is to have one of these higher-priced cocktails, and savour every sip.

If you want to really push the boat out here, head to Splendido, where sommelier Carlo Catallo has created the Canadian Royale, a $21 tipple that comes with its own floor show.

A cherrywood cart is wheeled over and the drink built table side. Brushed metal champagne buckets sweat (oops, perspire – this is Splendido) in the late afternoon sun.

First, Inniskillin Vidal Icewine is poured into a champagne flute, then Trius Brut sparkling wine. Finally, a precious swirl of Marnier-Lapostolle VSOP cognac is poured from a small silver pitcher to top off the glass. “It is a beautiful treat,” says Catallo. “People see the cold champagne bucket and you get a sense of luxury.”

The Canadian Royale was inspired by a Splendido regular who liked to mix icewine with Moët & Chandon champagne.

The flavours change as you drink – the first sips are coated with cognac, then the sweet icewine begins to mingle with the wine, finishing with a final hint of sweet tropical fruit-infused icewine.

“Premium ingredients are used to make premium cocktails,” says Catallo. (The bar also makes a fantastic herb charged $22 Negroni with rare Barolo Chinato sweet wine.) People who want luxury are willing to pay for it, he figures. “It’s like a rib-eye versus a burger.” Sometimes you want both the steak and the sizzle.

Canadian Royale
Star Tested

1oz. Inniskillin Vidal Icewine
3.5 oz. well-chilled Trius Brut sparkling wine
1/2 oz. Marnier-Lapostolle
VSOP cognac
Champagne flute

Preparation: Pour icewine into flute. Add sparkling wine. Slowly top with cognac. Do not stir. Makes 1 drink.