The New York Times
August, 2006

Even the most hard to please will thrill to the four- or six-course chef's tasting menus, which might include poached green and white asparagus with lobster foam, and Alberta lamb rib eye with wild leeks and morel mushrooms. The menu crisscrosses the country, with wood-burning oven-roast whole fish, short ribs of beef, or prime beef strip steak. The kitchen is peerless and the front of the house functions like a fine Swiss watch. A huge, black, iron chandelier serves as the focal point in one of the city's most beautifully balanced rooms, which are painted in shades of caramel, cream, and taupe. Reservations essential.