Globe and Mail
May 9, 2007
Pale spears, pure pleasure
At Splendido, from mid-May until the end of June (though
Mother Nature is the ultimate arbiter of the season), we
rise before dawn and make our way to the Ontario Food
Terminal to secure the crème de la crème of white asparagus,
grown by a farmer from Simcoe County. It's not an option to
sleep in: This is a specialty so popular and here for such a
short period of time that the best of it is sold out by 9
a.m.
White asparagus is unique both in flavour and method of
production. While the asparagus grows, farmers earth up the
beds to keep the vegetable completely covered. This prevents
any contact with sunlight, which would trigger the process
of photosynthesis, and thus stimulate the production of
chlorophyll, the pigment that lends plant matter its
characteristic green colour.
Some farmers are so obsessive about this that they spend
their nights in the asparagus fields with flashlights,
covering plants even as they break through the soil. Others,
like Dave Cohlmeyer of Cookstown Greens, a farm in
Cookstown, Ont., allow only the tips to break the earth,
which gives us bi-coloured asparagus - white stalks and
purplish-green tips.
Farmers cover white asparagus while it grows to keep it from
getting sunlight, which would trigger photosynthesis and
result in green spears. (Kevin Van Paassen/The Globe and Mail)
While at the market, the best way to determine whether the
asparagus is at its peak is to break one of the stalks and
suck on the exposed flesh. If the asparagus is at all
bitter, that flavour will translate to the finished product.
White asparagus, at its finest, should be sweet and slightly
nutty.
While I prefer to use larger stalks of white asparagus, the
choice between thin or thick stalks is a matter of personal
taste. The most important thing is to peel off any outer
fibrous layers from the stalks before cooking. At the
restaurant, I am so obsessive about this process that it's
only myself or my sous-chefs who are entrusted with this
task. (I also find peeling asparagus to be very therapeutic,
a good way for me to relieve the stresses of the day.)
I generally poach asparagus in a mixture of water, butter,
salt and sugar. The sugar serves to highlight the natural
sweetness and contrast with the nutty flavour that makes
white asparagus unique.
While I have paired white asparagus with lobster or
truffles, a more simple dish learned during my
apprenticeship in Europe remains my favourite way to eat
this gift of spring: poached white asparagus with
hollandaise sauce.
One of my beliefs as a chef is that one does not have to do
much to a great product in order to serve it at its finest;
the ingredient will speak for itself. The simplicity of the
dish highlights the natural qualities of the asparagus, and
the hollandaise accents the flavours of the asparagus
perfectly.
Ontario's bounty of great growing regions and diligent
farmers means that, as chefs, we have an incredible array of
fresh, local produce to choose from. One doesn't need to
look across the ocean to France's Loire Valley for great
white asparagus.
POACHED WHITE ASPARAGUS WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
What you need
8 cups of water
8 tablespoons of white sugar
8 tablespoons of kosher salt
1/4 pound of butter
1 pound of white asparagus
What you do
Bring first four ingredients to a boil in a medium-sized
saucepan. Reduce heat to gentle simmer.
Starting two inches from the tip of the asparagus and
finishing two inches from the bottom, peel the outer fibrous
skin from each stalk. Snap off the bottom ends of the
stalks.
Place the asparagus in the saucepan, and cook gently (no
bubbles) until the stalks can be easily pierced with the tip
of a knife.
Once cooked, serve immediately (you can poach the asparagus
ahead of time and reheat in the poaching liquid - if you are
going to do this, undercook the asparagus slightly the first
time).
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
What you need
3 egg yolks
1 tablespoon cold water
1 cup unsalted butter
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
Tabasco sauce
Worcestershire sauce
What you do
Place egg yolks and water in a bowl over a double boiler and
whisk well with a wire whisk until light and frothy (the
yolks will take on a much lighter colour as air is
incorporated into them).
Put all but 2 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan
over low heat until just melted.
Add 1 tablespoon of the cold butter to the egg and water
mixture and place over hot, not boiling, water.
Whip constantly until the egg yolks start to thicken.
Remove from heat and whip in the second tablespoon of cold
butter.
Gradually pour the melted butter into the egg mixture,
beating constantly (if the mixture starts to go stodgy,
place the bowl back on the heat briefly, whisking all the
while).
Once all the butter has been incorporated, put the bowl back
on the double boiler and cook until thickened, whisking
constantly.
Hollandaise should hold like mayonnaise, but a little
softer, when the whisk is drawn across the surface of the
sauce.
Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice, salt and a dash
each of Tabasco sauce and Worcestershire sauce. Spoon
hollandaise sauce over poached white asparagus.
Serves 4.
David Lee is co-owner and executive chef at Toronto's
Splendido restaurant.
Buying white asparagus
Look for unbroken stalks with uncracked bases.
The tips and stalks should be firm (not slimy).
The flesh should not yield when pressed.
The best way to determine whether or not the asparagus is at
its peak is to break one of the stalks and suck on the
exposed flesh; if the asparagus is at all bitter, that
flavour will translate to the finished, cooked product.
David Lee
Beppi's wine matches
If you've never served champagne with food, today's recipe
is a great place to start. The delicacy and classic elegance
of Chef Lee's dish makes for a dynamite match with France's
regal sparkling wine. And because champagne is a friend to
all foods, it will harmonize with whatever else is on your
plate. For a more affordable option, try a lightly oaked
chardonnay such as the excellent William Fevre Chablis
Champs Royaux from France ($20.30). It has the acidity to
complement the asparagus and the body to support the rich
sauce. Another good option would be sauvignon blanc,
especially more subtle styles from France's Loire Valley
that go by the names Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.
Beppi Crosariol
The full article is here.
