The Toronto Sun / Lifestyle
September 2, 2007

Penfolds' luxury wines simply Splendido

By RICK VANSICKLE


For Penfolds' chief winemaker, Peter Gago, success at his Aussie wine company is all in the risks they take.

"Nothing's locked in, nothing's formalized," Gago said, during a fabulous dinner at Splendido in Toronto.

Gago, an engaging speaker and passionate winemaker, is forever moving the considerable Penfolds portfolio forward. He tweaks the wines constantly with different blends, vineyards, oak and styles.

So another chance to match Penfolds' luxury wines with one of this country's most celebrated chefs, Splendido's David Lee, was met with fevered anticipation.

Out of the gate, guests were enthralled. It started with poached Nova Scotia lobster with Niagara peaches and Champagne tarragon.

The wine Gago chose was Penfolds Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2006 ($30, but not available), a new chard with complex aromas of apple, citrus and oak kisses, which turned surprisingly lively and crisp on the palate. The lightly toasted notes and fresh citrus was like garnish for the lobster and peaches. My, oh, my.

WILD, UNFILTERED

Next up was an applewood smoked Yorkshire pork belly and liver sausage. Gago offered a Penfolds Cellar Reserve Pinot Noir 2004 ($40, and not available yet). This is a wild wine, unfiltered and with extraordinary depth of fruit from ripe cherries, raspberries and red currants to more earthy bits of cedar, tobacco, anise and tar. It was wild on wild with the texturally nuanced pork belly.

And things just kept getting better. Charcoal-grilled beef ribeye with Jerusalem artichoke tortellini and pulled braised oxtail was matched superbly with Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2004 ($36, Vintages).

Imagine two masters, Gago and Lee, going toe-to-toe, matching blow for blow. This would be the headline bout. Lee lobs a rare and juicy ribeye, Gago counters with currants, plums, raspberries and spicy kirsch and nutmeg aromas. Lee delivers an exotic dose of oxtail, and Gago's in there with bold, spicy, peppery flavours with hints of red licorice, sweet tar notes and brambly fruit.

We'll call it a perfectly even match and leave it at that.

BLENDED SHIRAZ

Last at the plate was perhaps the weakest pairing but the finest wine experience. Penfolds Grange 2002 ($300 in the November Classics catalogue), Penfolds' flagship wine, a blended shiraz, and one of the most sought-after wines in the world.

It was served with a selection of incredible cheeses from around the world but the wine overpowered the cheeses.

The Grange possessed sweet, pretty violet aromas with raspberry, mineral, black currants, all-spice, mocha and thick, oaky vanilla spice.

On the palate, a hearty coat of oak and tannins was followed by waves of fruits in behind. Blackberry, currants, some blueberry/wildberry and then a riot of spice and exotic flavours. A purely hedonistic experience and one that must be tried at least once in this life.

Enjoy!