GLOBE AND MAIL
September 26, 2007

Bloody fine steak

By DAVID LEE

I recently spent two weeks participating in a cooking exposition in Singapore, where I had the opportunity to see and taste incredible seafood.

But after two weeks of spicy South Pacific cuisine, I returned home with a craving for the most typical of late-summer backyard foods - a simple grilled steak.

With that in mind I went to see my local butcher, Steve Alexander at Cumbrae Farms, who is locally raising Wagyu cows.

Wagyu is the venerated breed of cattle from Japan (Wa means Japanese and gyû means cattle, or literally Japanese cow), world-renowned for its intense marbling and succulent flavour.

On my way to Cumbrae's, I received a call from Joe Figliomeni, head butcher at Pusateri's, who informed me he had just received his first shipment of Kobe beef from Japan, a product exclusively sold at Pusateri's.

Kobe beef comes from the Wagyu breed of cow, though only beef raised in the Kobe prefecture can be called Kobe beef (the same rigid appellation controls apply to food or drink items in other regions, such as Champagne).

Which to choose? As often happens with a chef who thinks with his belly first, I took each of them home to grill.

Grilling these steaks was a new experience for me, as I've never cooked a piece of meat with such intensive marbling.

I lit my barbecue and brought the heat to high (while the steaks were left out to warm to room temperature - a useful trick that allows for more even cooking). I seasoned the steaks with sel de Guérande and cracked black peppercorns and seared them on both sides, developing a lightly charred exterior while cooking them to medium-rare.

Then came the taste test. Cutting into each of the steaks was a revelation. They were both superior to any I had tasted before, but each had its own characteristics.

I concluded they should not be compared, but each enjoyed for its uniqueness.

With Wagyu cattle, it's all about the bloodlines - breeding is of the utmost importance for beef of such high quality. The bull that started Cumbrae Farms' stock is from Australia, with a family tree reaching back to Japan.

By controlling the process from "farm to fork," Cumbrae Farms produces a high-quality, locally raised product that raises the bar for what constitutes a good steak in Toronto.

Pusateri's has also upped the ante by making Kobe beef available here (we used to have to import it from New York or Las Vegas).

Both are passionate and local purveyors, each offering a similar, yet distinct, product. Cumbrae Farms is dedicated to the idea of locally raised animals, and Pusateri's is delivering high-quality foodstuffs from far corners of the globe.

In my backyard one late August evening, they both came out winners.

GRILLED WAGYU BEEF

WHAT YOU NEED

2 12- to 16-ounce centre-cut Wagyu strip loin or rib-eye steak

Olive oil

Best-available coarse salt (sel de Guérande is my preference)

Freshly ground black pepper

WHAT YOU DO

Remove the steaks from the fridge and allow them to come to room temperature.

Light your grill or barbecue and let it get very hot. Lightly brush the grill with olive oil, and let the flames subside.

Season the steaks on all sides with salt and pepper. Sear about four minutes a side (for medium rare), developing a lightly charred exterior.

Remove from the grill and allow to rest about five minutes before cutting.

Chef David Lee is co-owner and executive chef at Toronto's Splendido.

Beppi's wine matches

Here's an excuse to haul out that blockbuster big red that's been aging in your cellar. The more full-bodied the better. Conversely, this is the kind of rare treat that can actually flatter an astringently tannic and otherwise unapproachable young red, especially a Bordeaux. The tannins - dry particles from the skins and seeds - pair well with low-salt, high-fat foods, most notably well-marbled meat. Fat reduces the perception of astringency, while the tannins subdue the greasy character of richly fatty foods. Some nicely priced possibilities: Château Pey La Tour from France ($23) and Peter Lehmann Clancy's from Australia ($18). From British Columbia, look for Pétales d'Osoyoos ($25) or Tinhorn Creek's Oldfield's Collection

Merlot ($28). And for an excellent value, try Angove's Stonegate Cabernet Shiraz from Australia ($9.95).

Beppi Crosariol