theglobeandmail.com
November 14, 2007
Chef David Lee took your culinary questions
Need a hand in the kitchen?
Let David Lee help. The co-owner and chef de cuisine at Toronto's Splendido Restaurant was online earlier to take your questions.
Not sure what to serve at your next dinner party? Need help with a cooking technique? Want advice on kitchen equipment?
Your questions and Mr. Lee's answers will appear at the bottom of this page once the discussion has begun.
Born in England, David Lee is the third generation in a family line of chefs. At age 24, he moved to Canada and was hired as the chef de cuisine by Marc Thuet, executive chef/owner at Centro. While working for Thuet Mr. Lee travelled to Napa Valley, Hong Kong, Madrid, Italy and France New York in order to expand his knowledge and craft. At the age of 29, Mr. Lee teamed up with Yannick Bigourdan to acquire Splendido.
Upon the re-opening of the new Splendido in the fall of 2001 Mr. Lee began to take advantage of local ingredients, and built relationships with Canadian farmers.
In the end, through all of his valuable experiences, Mr. Lee has come to realize that the best food is prepared with the least complication.
Rasha Mourtada, Globe Life web editor: Good afternoon, David, and thanks for coming online today to take reader questions. With the holidays just around the corner, people are gearing up for lots of entertaining. Any advice on how to keep things simple but also impress guests?
David Lee: Rasha A trip to Splendido always impresses! (ha ha). Plan your menus well ahead of time, and try to make things you've had success with before 40 people at your house is not the time to find out that something is not going to work! As much as possible try to get things prepared ahead of time, so you have time to enjoy time with your guests. I like to do boiled fresh lobster and melted butter simple is quite often spectacular!
James S, Canada: Hi David, We are entertaining a family group of 10 adults plus kids. I was looking to do a whole beef tenderloin. The trick would be to 'prep/cook' ahead of time and either just heat /or serve room temp at dinner... approx 2-3 hours after guests arrive. Any suggestions. Also, I guess doing a beef Wellington is too fussy for this application and standing and serving at room temp is a no-no? Thanks!
David Lee: James Great idea to do a whole beef tenderloin. My suggestion would be to sear it on the BBQ first, and then slow-cook it in the oven at 350 degrees F for roughly an hour (for medium-rare). To reheat, place it back on the BBQ for about 15 minutes, slice and serve! I wouldn't recommend doing beef Wellington, as it could be too hit or miss, and failure certainly isn't an option with a house full of guests!
Fiona Engineer, Mississauga: What are the top 3 culinary schools for chef training that you would recommend in Toronto and the top 3 in Montreal, Quebec?
David Lee: Fiona I'd have to say that the Stratford Chef's School (though not in Toronto) is near the top of the list in Canada; for Toronto proper, I'd recommend George Brown or Humber. My knowledge of Montreal cooking schools is more limited, but I know of one called L'Insititut D'Hotellerie et Tourisme de Quebec or the Academie Culinaire.
Saro Turner, Quebec City: Hello Chef Lee, What are the basic elements of making a good old fashioned spaghetti sauce? I've messed up a couple of times in a row now because I keep adding too much water and it's never think enough.
David Lee: Saro Good canned plum tomatoes (San Marzanos are especially prized), good extra virgin olive oil, garlic, basil and onions. What I recommend is browning the garlic in olive oil, then adding the tomatoes to the garlic-infused oil (the choice is yours as to whether you remove the garlic or not). Dice the onions, and cook those with a bit of butter and water in a separate pan what you want to do is soften the onions, and highlight their sweetness once they are softened, add those to the pan with the tomatoes. Cook the sauce until it has thickened slightly (you shouldn't need to add any water tomatoes bring enough of that themselves), and drop a few leaves of fresh basil into the sauce right at the end.
Shaun Saldanha, Ajax, Canada: Hello David, When grilling meat I've been told not to salt until the meet is resting, as the salt draws out juices during cooking. However, shows on the Food Network usually advise viewers to season (including salt) prior to cooking? Help!!!!! Also my wife and I will be celebrating our 5 year anniversary at Splendido this Friday...we're looking forward to your tasters menu.
David Lee: Shaun Good question. There are varying theories as to when one should season meat my personal belief is that it is necessary to season at the beginning. However, if you have a nice finishing salt, such as Maldon or Sel de Guerande, it can elevate a piece of meat with just a slight sprinkle at the end! We look forward to seeing you this Friday!
Jodey D, Ottawa Canada: I live in Ottawa but a few years back I visited your restaurant on 3 or 4 occasions and they were all wonderful meals. So let me just thank you for those wonderful dining experiences. Aside from your own restaurant in Toronto what restaurants are you particularly fond of and like to go to? And any chance we will see a cookbook from you in the near future?
David Lee: Jodey Thank you for your kind words regarding Splendido we hope to see you back soon! For dim sum, Lai Wah Heen is a personal favorite. Zucca Trattoria for Italian food is another good one. Oysters can't be beat at Starfish on Adelaide. Ghandi on Queen St. is an excellent place for Roti, and I enjoy Lee for sharing plates. In terms of a cookbook, I'm open to all offers!
John Kushnier, Calgary, Alberta: Hello Chef Lee: My question is about induction cooking. We are a family that likes innovation. We recently acquired a counter top induction cooker. There seemed to be very good reasons to use induction cooking, energy saving, speed of heating, less waste heat etc. Can you give some guidelines for induction cooking, and perhaps what are it culinary advantages like what foods work best, and which do not. Thanks.
David Lee: John My first experience with induction cooking was in Switzerland, where I worked with it for two years. The culinary advantages to it are that it is a clean method, it's very quick, it doesn't give off excess heat (a great thing if you are cooking in the summer!). Anything you might prepare by rapid boil is very conducive to this heat source. There are no guidelines specific to induction cooking that will make your food taste any better than if you were using other heat sources.
Rich Gong, Canada: Hi David, I have always wanted to roast a whole pig on a spit over a bonfire. Do you have any suggestions on how I search for the right pig? Also, what's the easiest way to set it up?
David Lee: Rich Personally, I would source a suckling pig no larger than 25-30 lbs. There are places where you could rent a motorized spit, which would be the easiest way to cook this. In terms of seasoning, salt, pepper, garlic and thyme are all you will need make sure you rub the surface of the pig with canola oil to ensure even cooking and browning.
V K, Toronto: Hi David. What kind of duck do you use when making confit? Also I've seen different methods of preparation before submerging in the fat bath, what do you do?
David Lee: VK We use duck legs from Quebec for our confit at the restaurant. I cure them with salt, pepper and spices for 24 hours prior to poaching them in duck fat.
Michael Newton, Corner Brook: Hi David. Despite the fact that I live by the ocean, I do not have access to a fresh fish market. I buy at the local supermarket. How do I know the fish is fresh (the fish guy at the supermarket can only tell me when they got the fish, not when it was caught)? I like to eat sashimi and sushi and worry that what I'm buying is not fresh.
David Lee: Michael, basically the fish must look it!!!!!!! Smell the fish before buying -- it mustn't smell!! This is very important
R. C. , Toronto: I consider myself a competent cook but recently tried a 'reduced' sauce but the problem is, it didn't. It came out too watery but fortunately it was only for me. I used whipping cream and dark rum so I can tell you the meal wasn't a total write-off. I have a smooth top stove and find it heats up quickly and cools down slowly so I'm constantly monitoring it. Any advice?
David Lee: R.C. Make sure the cream was not whipped before being reduced. Keep whisking the cream as it reduces (hold it at a moderate temperature).
David Bator, Toronto: Thank you for taking my question. I am a home cook with a passion for food and 'dreams' of one day cooking professionally. I have a big appetite for educating myself, reading cookbooks, eating out and talking to cooks, but am interested in your opinion about the best way to further my education. Are culinary schools best? Or individual courses on things such as knife skills, educating myself on product? Is it travel and experiencing other cuisines? I understand there's no short answer, but I would like to know what you might recommend as a next step.
David Lee: David Great question. I feel that school is a necessary part of the formation of a professional career, as it provides a basic foundation from which to work from. Certainly reading on your own is a great way to expand your sphere of knowledge, and travelling will always open new horizons. Eat at as many different levels of restaurants as you can (from Bistro to 3-star Michelin and everything in between). I cannot stress the importance of a good base however, and a culinary school is where you will receive the broadest foundation. But not all schools are created equal make sure you do your research.
Rasha Mourtada, Globe Life web editor: Thanks so much, David, for coming online. Any last thoughts you'd like to leave us with?
David Lee: Rasha Thank you for having me, and for all your questions. Eat local, buy local as much as possible, and support farmers' markets!
