Toronto Life
February, 2008
Restaurants Guide - Editorial Review
Splendido ****
Before menus are even presented, the kitchen sends out a
two-tiered tray of scrumptious hors d’oeuvres: ratatouille
tartlets, rosemary-parmesan biscuits and shot glasses of
satiny squash soup perfumed with a drop of hazelnut oil. It
sets the tone for an evening of pure decadence. Chef and
co-owner David Lee offers a traditional table d’hôte or a
luxe tasting menu that respects the seasons and shows a
patriotic fondness for Canadian ingredients. Presented on a
polished slab of wood, duck charcuterie is interpreted three
ways: gossamer petals of cured breast; a rustic terrine with
Berkshire pork, hazelnuts and prunes; and a slice of Quebec
foie gras cooked sous-vide to gasp-inducing silkiness. A
flair for balancing textures is revealed in a pan-seared
Dungeness crab cake nestled in a silky avocado relish and
crowned with a crunchy slaw of cucumber, green papaya and
jellyfish. With a Tuscan heart and Canadian spirit, a small
mid-course pasta—just a few perfect bites—finds pappardelle
bathed in an allspice-scented ragoût of wild Nunavut caribou
and Niagara pancetta. It keeps the palate humming until the
mains arrive. Lobster is poached in butter to absolute
tenderness and perched on a puddle of sunchoke purée with
wilted spinach, pressure-cooked legumes and an intense
lobster emulsion; taking the dish to the next level are tiny
florets of lightly pickled cauliflower, which add a welcome
crunch and balance the richness of the crustacean. Boneless
lamb loin from Haldimand County is pan-roasted and served
on a fan of braised fennel with rosemary-scented jus;
sharing the plate and stealing the spotlight are tortellini
stuffed with braised shank meat that literally explode with
flavour. Desserts, while flawlessly executed, don’t quite
dazzle with the same intensity as the mains. Made with
Michel Cluizel chocolate, a light, fluffy soufflé lacks the
robustness you would expect from the brand. The wine list
delves deep into France and Italy, though there are more
bottles above $1,000 than below $50. Co-owner Yannick
Bigourdan choreographs a phalanx of smartly dressed servers
who cater to every whim, anticipate every need and treat
everyone like a VIP. Mains $42–$55.
